Aaaaand we’re back in business!!!!** I’m temporarily emerging from the blogosphere-graveyard that is university life to bring you some Taiwan-related cheer. Last weekend I spent a very lovely night with some of my best friends at AU since freshman year to celebrate Chinese New Year. We gorged on liberal amounts of hot pot with many cuts of meat, fried tofu, mushrooms, veggies and fish balls. Yum. Followed nontraditionally by some freshly fried yummmmmmmmmmmmmmmTURONyummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm…
Only ninjas can make a proper turon
And of course some general festive libations. My great friend, Carl, whom I’ve introduced before, was in attendance as well. It was great to reconnect with friends from all over while also enjoying the food I miss so much from Taiwan.
Later that same weekend, I also had the honor of being able to attend a large banquet sponsored by TECRO that brought together many of the Taiwanese Student Associations (TSA) from DC universities and generally important Taiwanese people in the DC community. There were some pretty funny performances and interesting people to meet. Ironically, though, the banquet was held at a Cantonese restaurant…er…Next time I vote Bob’s Noodle.
Finally, there is a new association in the works now that I am not sure I am quite at liberty to start publicizing at the moment, BUT it is exciting, has to do with Taiwan and DC (two of my very favorite places), and offers the opportunity to collaborate with many students in the DC area. Hopefully I will be able to expand more on that later.
First it was Hello Mao Tse-Tung Kitty…Now it’s Adolf Hitler steamed dumplings? I passed by the sign below on my way back home from campus today and had to do a double take…It really is a cartoon version of Adolf Hitler selling “German steamed dumplings”. Wow.
Hitler dumplings anyone? Sorry for the poor picture quality, I was on the bus when I snapped the picture.
By the way, have you ever played this game? (See below). It’s only kind of awesome.
I created a Google map of where to eat around NCCU’s campus. You can find the page on the menu under the NCCU page. Just hover your mouse over the link to “Inside National Chengchi University” and you will find the link to the new page. Leave comments!
Because this Wednesday cannot be totally wordless…
A recent editorial in the online newspaper Taiwan Today detailed Taiwan’s promotion attempt to put the affectionately nick-named “Sweet Potato” on the map: bring Taiwan’s cuisine to the world. Among foodies, Taiwan has long been known as a food-lovers paradise; Andrew Zimmerman of the Travel Channel’s “Bizarre Foods” show aired an episode back in 2007 highlighting the county’s finest–for better or for worse (despite he’s notorious iron-stomach, the Wang Tofu Factory’s stinky tofu turned out to be that host’s Achille’s heel).
Frankly, I think this a great idea in terms of boosting Taiwan’s tourist sector. Before my family arrived in Taipei to visit last week, I mapped out a seven-day plan of exactly where we were going to eat and all of the different foods they had to sample during their stay. Ultimately, we discovered that this was wholly impossible to complete in one week (unless, perhaps, eating is the *only* thing you do here…which I think my brother would have been perfectly content with). Moreover, though I often find myself complaining about the lack of foreign food varieties, I realize that–more so–many of the foods here simply cannot be found abroad. Of course, none of the food is particularly “gourmet”; it is about as ‘street’ as ‘street’ can get. Taiwanese restaurants with any semblance of ambiance are few and far between. Rather, the “best” Taiwanese foods are greasy, odorous, filling, convenient, and cheap–and are part of what makes this country an awesome place to taste.
Another related part of Taiwan’s initiative is the Battle of the Night Markets. The Ministry of Transportation and Communications is sponsoring a competition to determine the top five night markets in Taiwan to promote internationally. Heads up potential tourists, “The bureau will also present 100,000 night market consumer vouchers as gifts to foreign travelers on an air ticket plus hotel package this year. Preliminary plans call for an NT$100 (US$3.08) voucher for each tourist, good for sampling the snacks at any of the five champion night markets” (TaiwanToday.com). $100NT can easily buy you one plate of oyster omelet, a giant chicken patty, and a 500cc pearl milk tea to wash it all down. Yum! The public can help vote for the five best markets in July after the top ten have already been widdled down by a panel of “experts” (Expert what? Pig blood eaters? Can I qualify?). The article also explains that “the five night markets to be chosen will fall into the categories of most sanitary, most friendly, most interesting, easiest to get around in and most delicious”
To my fellow readers in Taiwan, what’s your favorite night market? Personally, I like my nearby Tonghua Market. The variety is good, there are some interesting knick-knack shops (like the jam-packed puzzle, poster, and painting store I found with my boyfriend the other week), and it’s only a fifteen minute walk from home. Also feel free to comment about your own favorite Taiwanese snacks–the list is truly endless.
The Unofficial Taiwanese “小吃” Food Checklist
Noodles-
Beef noodles
Beef Noodle 牛肉麵 niúròumiàn
Mi fen 米粉 mǐfěn
Hand-shaved noodles
Sesame noodles 麻醬麵 májiàngmiàn
Zha jiang mian 炸醬麵 zhájiànɡmiàn
Meats-
Sweet Sausage 台灣香腸香腸 táiwān xiāngcháng
Small Sausage Wrapped in a Big Sausage 大腸包小腸
Chicken Patty 雞排 jīpái
愛玉冰
Beverages-
Bubble Tea 珍珠奶茶 zhēnzhū nǎichá
Ai Yu Bing 愛玉冰 àiyù bīng
Soy Milk 豆漿 dòujiāng (Everyone will tell you to go to YongHe DouJiang for the best soy milk in the city, but I will let you in on a secret: they’re not the best! The best is found at a little breakfast shop across from NCCU that makes their own homemade soy milk that offers a depth of flavor and freshness that is incomparable anywhere else.)
The best 豆漿 in the city
Desserts-
Ice cream tortilla 冰淇淋花生餅 bīngqílín huāshēngbǐng
Mochi 莫基 mòjī
Pineapple cake 鳳梨酥 fènglísū
Tang yuan 湯圓 tāngyuán (can also be savory)
Shaved Ice 挫冰 cuòbīng
Stewed pork on rice 滷肉飯 lǔròu fàn
蛋餅, you can eat this with a number of toppings: ham, bacon, veggies, pork floss, tuna fish, etc.
Miscellaneous-
Steamed Stuffed Bun 包子 bāozi
Deep-fried Twisted Dough Stick 油條 yóutiáo
Egg Drop Soup 蛋花湯 dànhuātāng
Hot and Sour Soup 酸辣湯 suānlàtāng
Egg Pancake 蛋餅 dànbǐng
Glutinous Rice Dumpling 粽子zòngzi (Popular during Dragon Boat Festival)
Taiwanese Bread 台灣麵包 (They will put anything and everything in a loaf of *sweet* bread)
Pepper Bun 胡椒餅 hújiāobǐng (No idea why this translates as “pepper bun.” I would describe this as a cross between a bao.zi and a bagel–possibly two of my favorite types of carbs in the world. The only vendor I have met in Taipei selling these is nice lady who sets up “shop” near the NTU/Gongguan area. Cheap, tasty, with all sorts of fillings and flavors.)
One of many of the most disgusting things I've ever eaten -- Pig blood cake
Pig blood on a stick 豬血糕 zhūxiěgāo (Toppings include spicy sauce or shaved peanuts and cilantro)
Fried dough balls
Tempura 天麸羅 tiānfūluó
Oyster omelet 蚵仔煎 kézǎi jiān
Giant sushi 大壽司 dàshòusī (I’m not sure if this is the correct name, but basically it is a giant roll of sushi rice with whatever fillings you want wrapped in seaweed)
Scallion pancake 蔥油餅 cōngyóubǐng
Stinky Tofu 臭豆腐 chòu dòufǔ (IMO: The stinkiest, foulest food on the planet)
For more great Taiwanese 小吃 recommendations, check out the blog My Inner Fatty.
And if you need some more multimedia to stimulate you appetite (there are two more parts of the show not included here)…
Tomorrow I have my final exam for Chinese class, so I thought I’d share some of my favorite Chinese characters I have learned throughout the time I’ve been here. Please note, Taiwan uses the traditional Chinese character system; mainland China uses the simplified type, which we all know is the less-than-aesthetic-lazy-cop-out-version of the Chinese writing system
加油 Literally, “to add gasoline/refuel” but it is probably more commonly used to cheer someone on (such as an athlete), “to make an effort”
濕 “To be damp, moist, humid, wet”
雨傘 “Umbrella”
費 “Fee”
部落格 “Weblog/blog”
膩 “To be tired of/bored with.” It is pronounced just like the way the Knights Who Say “Nee” in Monty Python and the Holy Grail say “nee”!
For the most part, I tend to have an affinity for words that look like what they mean. For others, it is the sound or use of the word that attracts me. 大部分，覺得對中文字很像他的語義有興趣。別的字，我覺得她的聲音或是用法有意思。
I am sad to end classes; learning Chinese in class has always been the best three hours of my days here in Taipei. Today, my class and I spent our earnings from the Language Center’s performance and shared a great meal at a small roadside dumpling shop. 最後的中文課，我覺得很難過； 在台北，我每天最棒的三個鐘頭是中文課。今天，我的中文班跟我一起去了吃飯在一家小小的餃子店，用我們表演賺來的錢。
杭州小籠包
Nayeon steals a dumpling
Soup dumplings filled with pork, crab, and shrimp; Steamed clams; Tofu soup; Beef in egg pancake
已經想你們了！
This little 店 was definitely better than Din Tai Fung! The xiaolongtangbao 小籠湯包 (soup dumplings) were bigger, tastier and cheaper. You can also order to-go. Go go go now! 這家小小籠湯包店比鼎泰豐更好！小籠湯包比較大，比較好吃，比較便宜多了。你也可以外帶。
Hangzhou XiaoLongTangBao/杭州小籠湯包
Hangzhou South Road, Sec. 2, No. 5
Taipei, Taiwan
台北市杭州南路2段53之5號
2393-5875 16:30-24:00
First: HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO THE BEST FATHER IN THE WORLD, MY DAD!!!!!!!!!!!!
I love my Dad simply for the amazing person he is and for how much I know he loves me. I couldn't ask for better. Love you, Dad.
And now for something completely different…
Before I arrived to Taiwan I often imagined myself sipping high-quality oolong tea in various small tea houses, enjoying some green tea on the way to school, pao-chaing some jasmine tea in my room. Finally, I thought, I would kick my college-created-caffeine-concentrated coffee addiction and move on to healthier things in life.
Tea in Jiufen
Flash forward ten months later and I STILL find myself drinking cafe lattes all too frequently. It’s no secret, starting from the beginning of the past decade Taipei has gone coffee crazy and is developing an industry poised to dominate the national beverage market. From imported brands, such as the ubiquitous Starbucks, Illy Coffee, Barista Coffee, Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, Dunkin’ Donuts, etc. to home-grown phenoms like 85 Degrees, Dante, and Ikari; then the mom-and-pop shops like Fong Da (which has their own roasts); as well as every convenient store: 7-11, OK Mart, Family Mart, and so on; a cup of caffeine is never farther than a two minute walk.
The strange this is, there is no similar sort of convenience factor for tea drinking. This is most evident in that convenient stores do not have tea on the drink menu (they do have tea lattes, but that’s not quite the same…especially when you’re looking for something less calorie laden). This I understand to an extent–for the Taiwanese, tea is meant to be enjoyed in the company of friends or companions, slowly, unhurriedly, and appreciated for it’s body and flavor. Selling hot tea in a quickie-to-go cup for your morning commute doesn’t quite have the same effect. The tea shops that do exist in Taipei (that do not also sell coffee or that are marketed primarily as a tea shop) are more conducive to a few patrons at a time, often to sip tea with the owner and chat the day away. Ambiance is generally lacking (often the shop is the front of someone’s home) and if you are a newbie to the tea scene and don’t speak much Chinese, these places may be a little daunting to navigate.
Finally, a cup of tea is *expensive* and I am not entirely certain as to why, especially since tea here is home-grown and coffee beans are imported (generally). Perhaps people place a higher value on tea than coffee here?
Of course, I do feel very fortunate to attend a school that happens to be on the base of Taipei’s main tea-producing mountain. So, if I really have a hankering for some freshly brewed tea, I can hop the Brown 15 bus and in around twenty minutes be in one of Maokong’s many tea houses. Obviously, though, this is difficult to do on a daily basis and Maokong is designed more as tourist destination– for local residents and foreign guests alike– simply for an occasional visit because it is hard to access.
Last semester I did a short research project on coffee in Taiwan with my former roommate (hi Virginia!!):
It was a good excuse to visit a lot of coffeeshops in Taipei.
And finally I will list and detail some of my favorite (and not so favorite) locations for a comfortable cup…
Cozy Cafe
Cozy Cafe
This little gem is situated nearby ShiDa night market. Unlimited wireless internet access is available for $20NT, electric outlets available. Best bagel sandwich (and vegetarian) I have yet encountered outside the US. They have a wide variety of coffees, teas and juices, as well as beer and liquor. My only gripe is that the chairs are somewhat uncomfortable, but the windows are large and there is always plenty of sunlight. The bathroom is also super-cute!
Yung-Kang Street, Lane 33, No. 23
(02) 27411170
The Wooden Drawer Cafe
A friend recently introduced me to this place and I’ve already been back twice. They make the most awesome green tea latte I’ve ever tasted! Wireless internet is free. Also a full selection of coffee, tea, beer, and liquor. The furniture is quite comfortable here and there is even a small covered outdoor seating area. There is also a large bookshelf full of books and magazines. I like the music.
Stumbled upon this one with a group of friends after wandering around ShiDa for a long time. The decor is very…well, Anne of Green Gables haha. Countryside-sheik. Wireless internet is free. Very bright and cheery. They offer an assortment of coffees and teas, as well as a full pasta and dessert menu. The chairs here also aren’t too comfortable, but there are some couches in the back. Also has a comfortable covered outdoor seating area on a rare patch of very green lawn.
A little hole-in-the-wall also located just outside the main Shida night market area. There are many tables, couches, and a bar all squished into this tiny establishment, but it’s very comfortable. Wireless internet is free. Coffees, teas, juices, beers, wines, liquors, liquors in the coffee (or is the other way around ?). My one complaint: the air con was up much too high. After about twenty minutes I was freezing and my capuccino was already cold. They also offer a good assortment of snacks, as well as a huge collection of books, magazines, and manga.
Fong Da is one of the oldest cafes in Taiwan. Established in 1956, it’s been brewing its own roasts for foreigners and locals alike in Ximending. This place is definitely old-fashioned and even still uses an old siphon pot to brew the coffee. It smells amazing! Fong Da also serves tea and some small pastries. A recommended respite after shopping in Ximending with friends. Not a place you want to bring a laptop and work, however.
42 Chengtu Rd., Taipei
臺北市成都路42號
Cafe Molinari
Mocha Latte at Cafe Molinari
This place has free wireless internet and makes a decent latte, but I wouldn’t really recommend it beyond that. The cafe is very dark and the furniture isn’t too comfortable. Located in the ShiDa night market area.
Couldn’t find the address, sorry.
Espressament Illy Cafe near NTU
Was not a fan of this cafe. A group of friends and I went here after a great dinner at Sababa Pita. The place was mostly empty and there plenty of seats to choose from. Coffee, tea and bar selections. It is very dark inside and there aren’t many options for snacks. The time we went, I did not want to order anything, but the waitress insisted I had to in order to stay there–even though there were seven other girls who all ordered food and drink. This is an odd and rather ridiculous rule in many eateries in Taipei. Thankfully, we managed to talk her out of it…but honestly???
The most successful cafe chain in the country–and it sure is pure-blooded Taiwanese. Full selection of coffee and espresso. Limited tea selection. The chain really capitalized on it’s “grab-and-go” set up, fashioned very much similar to the bubble tea shops you find here, however most 85 Degrees shops also have small sitting areas. I’ve heard mixed reviews on their baked goods, but I never miss a chance to eat with my eyes each time I pass by the shop across the street from where I live. 85 Degrees is also known for their “salt coffee”. Basically, it’s a latte with sea salt mixed into the foam. One word: YUCK! But the Taiwanese apparently love it; it has been 85 Degrees’ best seller here since it was introduced about a year and a half ago. 85 Degrees Cafes can today be found all over the world, including China, the US and Australia.
The bane of my existence. And the one place I can always go to and feel like I just stepped right back into the US. Prices are just the same and they make you pay for internet through Taipei’s WiFly service. I go here all too often–especially so when it is part of 7-11′s sticker book promotion and I can go with friends and get any drink buy-one-get-one-free. I do really like their black sesame green tea latte…that is one thing I cannot find back home!
Taiwan’s version of Starbucks at half the price, though Dante also makes you pay for wireless access through the HiNet service (disclaimer: I can sometime access a free wireless network at the Dante Coffee nearest to my apartment, but it’s a little shoddy). They also serve full “American” breakfasts and other set meals.
I went to the Barista Coffee in the Taipei 101 Mall once while waiting for a friend. I was *so* excited to see chai latte on the menu, so I immediately ordered one. Big mistake. Obviously it was from a powdered mix and I ended up with a horrible stomach ache…and…well…I won’t go into it…So, I can’t judge their other offerings, but I would advise to stay away from the chai latte. Ambiance is standard large-coffeehouse-chain design.
On Friday a couple of my Chinese class classmates, other Chinese language students, my teacher and I went to the Kuo Yuan Ye Museum of Cake & Pastry. Kuo Yuan Ye Foods is known primarily for its traditional Chinese-style cakes and pastries; some of the recipes have been passed down since the first pastry shop’s establishment in 1867 in Taipei. Since that founding, the company has expanded into other products and services such as soaps, millet wine, and wedding planning.
The Museum was opened in 2001 in Shilin. There is a small exhibit that displays the history of the company, the company’s products, and visions for the future. There is also a wedding ceremony exhibit area where you can try on traditional Chinese wedding garments. On the second floor there is a DIY area where, after watching a promotional video about the company in both/either Chinese and English, some of the bakers will teach you how to make different pastries. We made the traditional Taiwanese pineapple cake, 鳳梨酥 （fènglísū）.
老師 and 信賴 making 鳳梨酥
我的名字 (my name)
While the cakes were baking, we toured the museum exhibit and snacked on some Taiwanese 點心 (diǎnxin) and tea.
點心
And the finished products…
好香啊！They smelled so good!
All packaged up nice and pretty
We were told that the cakes will stay fresh for up to a week unopened, after which they should be consumed quickly! I would imagine these would freeze well too. I brought my box into Chinese class yesterday and shared them with everyone who couldn’t make it on Friday.
If you are in the area and interested in going the Shilin branch is open Monday-Friday from 09：00~11：30 and 12：30~15：00. Each DIY session is divided into 3 hour increments and they can accommodate up to 40 people. For our group of nine people, we each paid $250NT. The phone number for the program is （02）2838-2700 ext. 457 for Ms. Zeng. More information can be found here: http://www.kuos.com/foundation/cake/cake_cover.htm, but the website is in Chinese. The workers there do speak some English, so for any non-Chinese speakers out there who still want to go, I don’t think it should be so much of an issue. I noticed some of the women working in the bakery part were Filipino and were eager to try speaking English with us. The museum is a little tricky to find, but if you view the map on the website, just follow the dotted line from the blue rectangle to the red circle.
Recently I decided to participate in a wonderful event facilitated by the Student Ambassadors (SA) at NCCU called NCCU World Festival. The festival, which takes place in May, includes a food festival, fashion show, and a talent show and involves both local students and international students. We are currently in planning mode for the food festival, so that means my team–Team USA (well, one of three)–and I have to decide the menu ASAP. Facilities are limited, preparation can be done beforehand, and the food will be sold (yes, I might be able to make a little $$ off of this) and served outside.
But my question is: WHAT is American food?
Foreigners to the USA, of course, will almost invariably say “McDonald’s” or “hamburgers” or “french fries” (which all pretty much go hand-in-hand) when asked what American food is. But I think Anthony Bourdain summed it up best when he said, “American food is whatever people are eating now in America.”
Indeed, there is simply no one dish that I think perfectly encompasses what the USA is.
So I am reaching out to you, 朋友們, friends: What should I include in my menu?
Some of my ideas so far include:
“New Jersey Grub” – sloppy joes and milkshakes…or bagels? One my my teammates mentioned that she would love to learn how to make bagels (good thing I’ve actually done that a couple of times).
“Americana” – apple pie, potato salad and lemonade
“Americanese” – General Tso’s Chicken and fortune cookies (nobody in Asia, unless they have been to the US, has ever heard of such things)
“New England’s Best” – New England Clam Chowder, whoopie pies/frappe (which is basically a milkshake)
I’m trying not to be too ambitious; I would like to keep it as simple as possible. But I also want to make something memorable and unique.
Other ideas, anyone? What do you think American food is? I would love to get your input!
火鍋 for some very hungry people
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